Formulation and Evaluation of Vitamin C Peel-off Masks Using Different Skin Penetration Enhancers

Agnes A.T. Sahamastuti; Shania Foustine; Gisella E. Tjugianto; Jeannifer Rebecca; Shakila A. Adiyanto; Giovanni B.C. Daeli; Anton Sumarpo

doi:10.26538/tjnpr/v9i8.33

Authors

Agnes A.T. Sahamastuti Department of Pharmacology, Faculty of Medicine, Maranatha Christian University, Bandung 40164, Indonesia
Shania Foustine Pharmacy Study Program, Faculty of Bio Science, Indonesia International Institute for Life Sciences, Jakarta 13210, Indonesia
Gisella E. Tjugianto Pharmacy Study Program, Faculty of Bio Science, Indonesia International Institute for Life Sciences, Jakarta 13210, Indonesia
Jeannifer Rebecca Pharmacy Study Program, Faculty of Bio Science, Indonesia International Institute for Life Sciences, Jakarta 13210, Indonesia
Shakila A. Adiyanto Pharmacy Study Program, Faculty of Bio Science, Indonesia International Institute for Life Sciences, Jakarta 13210, Indonesia
Giovanni B.C. Daeli Pharmacy Study Program, Faculty of Bio Science, Indonesia International Institute for Life Sciences, Jakarta 13210, Indonesia
Anton Sumarpo Department of Clinical Pathology, Faculty of Medicine, Maranatha Christian University, Bandung 40164, Indonesia

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.26538/tjnpr/v9i8.33

Keywords:

Vitamin C, Skin penetration enhancers, Peel-off mask, In vitro permeation study, Stability

Abstract

Vitamin C is widely used as antioxidant in various cosmetic products; however, its effectiveness is limited by poor skin permeability. Aloe vera, vitamin E, Tween-20, and Tween-80 have been reported as skin penetration enhancers (SPEs). Nevertheless, their effectiveness as vitamin C enhancers has not been extensively studied. This study aimed to compare the effectiveness of the aforementioned SPEs in enhancing the permeation of vitamin C in peel-off mask formulations using Franz diffusion method. Several peel-off mask formulations containing vitamin C and different SPEs at concentrations of 0.5% and 2% were prepared and evaluated for their characteristics, stability, and vitamin C permeation using porcine ear skin. All formulations exhibited a pH range of 4.19 - 4.33, a viscosity range of 18802 - 113094 cps, and a drying time of approximately 18 minutes. After 45 days of storage at 4 ◦C, room temperature and 44 ◦C, vitamin C concentrations and viscosity values generally decreased, while pH remained relatively stable. All formulations demonstrated higher permeation compared to the control group, with the greatest permeation-enhancing effect observed in the 2% vitamin E formulation (Jss = 21.06 ± 2.17 µg/cm2/min; Kp = 5 ± 0.51 x 10-4 cm/min; ER = 1.749). This in vitro study concludes that 2% vitamin E was the most effective SPE for enhancing vitamin C permeation in peel-off mask formulations.

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